AI gives a car owner some bad advice about a recall

S. I bought my car new seven years ago. Recently, a part broke and the replacement cost me almost $800. After researching online and using AI, I discovered that this problem is common. In fact, the AI ​​said this was a summons. I checked the NHTSA application, and it doesn’t appear to be a recall. Customer service told me my specific car was not included in the extended warranty and said there was no appeals process. Is there anything I can do?

A. Even in this age of electronic communications, old-fashioned messages often get the best results. Depending on the part that failed and whether the failure is unusual for a car of this age, it may be worth writing to the company’s highest-ranking executive. Recently, someone with a similar problem did exactly that after paying out of pocket for repairs. The executive office’s response included an offer to change the full synthetic oil and provide a full detailing of the vehicle — services worth nearly half the cost of the repair. The customer was satisfied, especially since the car needed both. Also, although AI can be helpful, its answers are not always 100 percent accurate.

S. I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 235,000 miles. When the check engine light comes on, I scan the code with a handheld reader because I hate driving with the light on. The last time I cleared it was two weeks before the government inspection. The mechanic said I passed the safety part but still had two screens “not ready”. He keeps telling me to drive the car 100 miles and come back, but after almost 500 miles the same two screens still aren’t ready. Any advice?

A. During an emissions inspection, test equipment checks the status of your vehicle’s readiness monitors. Clearing fault codes resets all displays to “Not Ready” until the specified drive cycle conditions are met. Typically, 100 miles of mixed city and highway driving will reset all emissions monitors. However, with a 23-year-old vehicle with 235,000 miles on it, it is very likely that an emissions-related component has failed, preventing the monitoring devices from being completed. Your store must retrieve stored codes, identify screens that remain incomplete, and identify conditions that prevent them from setting up. Some states allow older vehicles to pass with one display not ready.

S. I’m thinking about purchasing an extended warranty for my 2021 Hyundai Palisade with 18,000 miles. My 5-year comprehensive warranty expires at the end of April. The extended warranties I’m considering are 8-10 years, cover up to 120,000 miles, have no deductible, and can be used at any licensed repair shop. They’re expensive, but I’m primarily interested in expensive components like computers, engines, and transmissions. Is buying one practical or a waste of money?

A. With the 10-year/100,000-mile powertrain warranty still in effect, I’d be inclined to take a chance without purchasing an extended warranty. If you decide to buy one, proceed carefully. Many aftermarket warranty companies offer plans that sound too good to be true. Over the years, I’ve seen many of these companies go out of business, leaving customers with useless contracts. AAA has been around for over a century and has offered extended warranties for decades. If I were to purchase the coverage myself, I would choose either the manufacturer’s extended warranty, or the warranty offered by AAA.

S. I have a 2025 Hyundai Santa Cruz Limited and I tow a 3300 lb camper. My truck has a maximum towing capacity of 5,000 pounds with a maximum tongue weight limit of 500 pounds. How strong is the reverse gear? My driveway is steep – could backing the camper up a hill damage the dual clutch transmission?

A. A dual-clutch transmission works much like a computer-controlled manual transmission. When reversing slowly or going up a steep incline with a trailer, the clutch must constantly slip, generating heat. Heat is the enemy of any transmission. Additionally, gear trains are generally stronger in forward rather than reverse gears. Can you back the cart up the hill? Yes, but avoid moving or agitating the accelerator pedal, as this increases the temperature of the clutch. Operating AWD and Tow Lock mode can also help manage power delivery and reduce overall stress on the drivetrain.

S. I’ve written to you in the past about my frustration with the infotainment system in my 2025 Mazda CX-5. I’m 69 years old, so I bear some partial blame, although my son, who works full-time in IT, also complains about the unintuitive controls. One of the most annoying problems is that the clock does not automatically adjust for daylight saving time. To change it by one hour, I have to remember how I did it the last time. The owner’s manual doesn’t even list “clock” or “time” in the index. To make matters worse, whenever you change the time, the clock starts running 3 to 4 minutes slower over the course of a week or two. Is this a common problem?

A. You’re right – the owner’s manual is frustrating and doesn’t list the clock or time. After doing some research online, I found instructions from a dealer website. To set the clock, go to the Settings menu on the infotainment screen by pressing the Home button. Select Settings (gear icon), then open the Clock or Time submenu. From there, you can manually set hours and minutes, switch between 12- and 24-hour formats, and enable or disable daylight saving time adjustment. Some models also allow automatic time synchronization via GPS, if equipped. As for losing time on the clock, I couldn’t find any documented information that addresses this.

John Paul He is the automotive physician at AAA Northeast. He has over 40 years of experience in the automotive industry and is an ASE Certified Master Technician. Email your Car Doctor question to [email protected]. Listen to the Car Doctor Podcast on Apple Podcast Or other popular podcast sites.