Métiers d’art – which translates as “artistic professions” – refers to the highest levels of decorative craftsmanship used to create beautiful objects. In watchmaking, these technologies are reduced to the size of a dial or even integrated into the movement itself, which increases their difficulty and impact. Size restrictions require exceptional precision, patience and technical mastery from the craftsmen.
Despite these challenges, watchmakers continue to push the boundaries of creativity, translating centuries-old techniques into contemporary expressions. This is no more evident than at the annual Watches and Wonders exhibition in Geneva, which is the most important and largest international exhibition for the watch industry. The 2026 edition once again highlighted a range of artistic crafts – from enameling and marquetry to engraving and gem-setting – demonstrating that fine watchmaking is as much about technical innovation as it is about mechanical prowess.
Let’s start with enamelling, a technique dating back more than 3,000 years to Mycenaean Greece, which involves fusing powdered glass onto metal surfaces at high temperatures. Today, there are more than 200 different types, including cloisonne, chambelvie, plique-à-jour, guilloché, and painted. Each requires painstaking, multi-step processes that leave little room for error.
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Waterfall Series, Robin Waterfall in Aoyama, Sagami Prefecture
Few watches offer as compelling a canvas for miniature art as the Reverso. Originally designed in 1931 for polo players, the reversible caseback became a showcase for artistic expression. This is the final installment of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hokusai A tour of the governorates’ waterfalls. The limited-edition series features four miniature-painted Grand Feu enamel creations, each requiring a minimum of 14 coats, each fired at approximately 800°C. The process requires about 80 hours of work. Reproducing a Hokusai painting on a surface no larger than two square centimeters requires extraordinary skill, so that even the smallest Japanese inscriptions are clear and legible. The scene itself depicts the dramatic vertical cascade of Robin Waterfall, complete with small human figures dwarfed by the size of the waterfall.
Completing the front dial is the handcrafted barley pattern artwork covered in multiple layers of clear enamel.
Cartier, Tortue, Panthère Métiers Dar
Cartier elevates the openwork dial by extending the decoration beyond the dial and onto the case, creating a dynamic image of the iconic tiger in the rain. Artisans carve small recesses filled with translucent enamel and flecks of gold or silver to form raindrops, giving the scene depth and movement. Each piece includes over 15 enamel colors and requires over 36 firings, totaling approximately 80 hours for the dial and 50 hours for the case. Even the gem-encrusted eyes require three hours of meticulous work. The result is both graphic and sculptural, underscoring the expressive potential of enamel. This model comes in two different color palettes: one in white gold with emerald eyes, and the other in yellow gold with tsavorite eyes.
Marquetry was also exhibited in Geneva. Traditionally associated with furniture, restauranting involves assembling thin veneers of wood or other materials into complex compositions. Although this craft dates back thousands of years, its use in watchmaking is relatively recent and evolving rapidly.
Hermes, Slim Dermis, Roar!
Inspired by the design of a silk scarf by artist Alice Shirley, this pocket watch transforms a roaring lion into a richly textured inlaid composition on its cover. Ten different types of wood—including tulipwood, maple, and burl—are cut into precise pieces and assembled into a seamless image that preserves the vibrancy of the original artwork. Inside, the craftsmanship continues with a Grand Feu enamelled dial in a herringbone pattern, repeatedly fired at temperatures exceeding 800°C for a luminous and durable finish.
Chopard, LUC Quattro Spirit 25, Straw Marquetry Edition
Chopard applies straw marquetry, a centuries-old technique rarely seen in watchmaking, to stunning effect. Using rye straw from Burgundy, artisans split, flatten and cut each strand into small pieces before assembling them into a honeycomb shape. Subtle variations in color and direction create a natural play of light, enhanced by a wax finish. The simple dial, featuring a jumping hour display and a single minute hand, allows craftsmanship to take center stage, while the in-house movement provides an impressive eight-day power reserve.
Gemstone setting, often taken for granted, is among the most technically demanding art disciplines. At its highest level, it turns watches into sculptural works of light and color.
Bvlgari, Serpenti Eterna, rose gold single case
Bvlgari reimagines its iconic Serpenti watch as a vibrant tapestry of precious stones. The sinuous shape is set with 122 colored stones – from rubellites and sapphires to Paraiba tourmalines – arranged in a dynamic composition that emphasizes contrast and harmony. This piece required hundreds of hours of development, stone selection and setting, culminating in a dazzling wearable sculpture.
Chanel, Gabrielle, Coco play set
Chanel turned its founder into the focal point of a fine jewelry watch. A sculptural statue of Gabrielle Chanel, made of white gold and set with hundreds of diamonds, is located next to the dial, transforming the watch into a three-dimensional painting. The interplay between gem setting, plating and onyx creates a striking contrast, while the overall composition blurs the line between watchmaking and fine jewellery.
Finally, there are poetic complexities and examples of embossed mastery.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune
Van Cleef & Arpels combines mechanical poetry and artisanal craftsmanship in a dial that depicts the passage of time as a celestial story. The rotating disc reveals an ornate mother-of-pearl sun and moon under a sparkling aventurine sky, while enamel and miniature painting enhance the scene. The craftsmanship continues on the case back with a white gold engraving representing the topography of the moon. The Earth is represented by the enamel drawing on the sapphire crystal above the oscillating weight. This Earth is surrounded by three miniature planetary paintings. The result is both technically complex and evocative.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36, Jubilee
Rolex is celebrating the centenary of the waterproof Oyster case in its usual simple way. However, this watch stands out with its colorful printed dial. No less than 10 colors are individually applied by hand, requiring precise alignment to maintain the integrity of the design – proof that artistry can be found in even the most simple frameworks.
Grand Seiko, Masterpiece, Mystical Waterfall Edition
Grand Seiko brings engraving to the forefront with a detailed depiction of Tateshina Waterfall in Japan across the dial and case. The interplay between hand-engraving and Zaratsu polishing creates dynamic reflections that emphasize texture and depth. Powered by a Spring Drive movement, the watch seamlessly combines traditional craftsmanship with modern watch technology.
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