There are many standard sites that you see when you are in Istanbul. Large mosques and the Grand Bazaar. Taksim has bridges, and there is no shortage of historic architecture. A mistake and the bathroom. You eat kebabs and, if you’re wise, extraordinary amounts of baklava. However, the city’s contemporary art scene tends to be overlooked, although Istanbul now boasts an impressive museum as well as a large number of fascinating art galleries and other random artistic encounters spread throughout the city.
I’ve spent a lot of time in Istanbul over the past decade, but every time I’ve gone, the reopening of Modern Istanbul — which was closed for refurbishment and relocation in 2018 — has been delayed again. The museum will officially open in its new building on the Karakoy waterfront in 2023; I finally saw him in 2025. By then, his reputation had been somewhat tarnished (more on that below), but his expanding collection has provided an excellent introduction to some of Turkey’s most important artists with a large permanent collection and several large-scale temporary exhibitions each year. If you’re not familiar with Turkish art, there are a few works in particular that you should keep an eye on.
Pride of women Zaid My hell It is a sprawling explosion of geometric abstraction. A Muslim princess who became one of the first women to attend art school in Istanbul, Zeid was an important avant-garde during the 1940s, and she exhibited this painting in 1954 at the Institute of Contemporary Art in London during what was the first solo exhibition by a woman.
Azad Coker A landscape of silence Likewise impressive in size. From a distance, the 18-foot-wide canvas displays a peaceful forest, but upon closer inspection, you realize that the forest is made of human skulls—the artist’s meditation on a world without us. Many will recognize the enormous inspiration of neo-expressionist Badre Beckham Jerome, this is my bathroom. Ingres’s double adaptation Turkish bath And Jerome The big bath in BursaHe provides a captivating critique of Orientalism. Smaller in size but not as important is Cihat Borak Death of a poeta triptych of Nazim Hikmet, the mid-century leftist poet who was imprisoned for his politics and then forced to flee before dying in exile.
I find the inclusion of the latter work somewhat surprising given the accusations of politically motivated censorship leveled against Modern Istanbul in recent years. Türkiye has become increasingly authoritarian over the two decades of President Erdogan’s rule, with the noose around the arts, media and political opposition constantly tightening. One can see how this sort of thing would impact a museum collection; Honoring a leftist martyr is not something you would expect to see here.
But that’s the way it is. As you wander through the city’s small art galleries, you will encounter a lot of artwork that could be interpreted as subversive. The Taksim Square area is known for its shopping and food, but it’s also full of art spaces. Mushir is one of the largest galleries, offering a diverse and ever-changing array of mixed media exhibitions. Likewise, there is the Salt Beyoğlu district which, in addition to art galleries, houses a cinema, a library and a conservatory. Down the street is Galerie Nev Istanbul, a one-room gallery offering a small but attractive assortment of pieces.
North of Taksim, in the bustling Dolapdere residential area, is Arter, which was the city’s largest contemporary art museum until the reopening of Istanbul Modern, and is an essential stop for anyone looking for the latest in Turkish art. It’s just a block away from Dirimart, which emphasizes emerging talent. On the Asian side of the city near the trendy Moda neighborhood is the Ghazan Museum, arguably my favorite art venue in Istanbul. Once a rusting gas station, the space has been repurposed into a community center featuring galleries, cafés, a library, and other creative spaces, all set amidst a forest of restored industrial architecture.
To see any or all of this best, you need to carefully consider where you will be staying. Istanbul is a huge city, and if you end up in the wrong place, you’ll spend your entire visit grinding through traffic from the back of a taxi. Many make the mistake of staying as close as possible to Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. This is fine in theory if this area is all you want to see, but if you’re trying to see the technical opportunities mentioned above, you’ll spend a lot of time moving around.
For easy access to both Taksim and Istanbul’s modern galleries, book a room at the Ritz-Carlton, which offers an upscale experience and stunning views. Two nearby options are Park Hyatt Macka Palas and St. Regis, which are relatively close to Taksim while making a move towards Arter and Dirimart. Both are architectural marvels, and both offer extremely luxurious accommodation. If you are trying to divide your time between modern Istanbul, exhibitions and MODA, the Conrad Bosphorus Hotel is located near the bridge between the two banks of the city, and offers a dazzling panoramic view of the city and the sea.
Finally, I would like to offer an alternative to the Grand Bazaar, whose prices have risen dramatically over the past decade while the quality of goods has diminished. It’s worth a look, but after you’re done with the crowds, head to the Fatih Sultan Bazaar on the west side of the Fatih Mosque. Here you will find handicrafts, textiles, soap, incense, food items and much more. It’s a market that leans towards serving locals rather than tourists, and unlike more popular markets, it still maintains an authentic artisanal atmosphere.
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