With summer upon us, there’s one style of shoe that you’re sure to see everywhere if you’re visiting anywhere in the Mediterranean: espadrilles. But how did this humble shoe become a staple for royals, actors and fashion experts alike? And why is it synonymous with the sunny beaches of Spain and the French Riviera when it also has its origins in the Pyrenees? Let’s unpack that.
It doesn’t take much to realize that espadrilles, also known as alpargatas or esparteñas in Spanish, have humble beginnings. Although they now come in a range of shapes and styles, the one thing that links all espadrilles is the sole made of jute or esparto rope, and usually a canvas upper. It was already known that espadrilles have been around for centuries, however In 2023It was discovered that the oldest known pair of shoes in Europe were actually espadrilles. A similar sandal, more than 6,200 years old, was found in a cave in southern Spain, less than five miles from the Mediterranean Sea, and is attributed to Neolithic farmers.
“Along with the Jesus sandal, espadrilles are among the oldest forms of footwear available.” Robert OsantThe author and fashion historian tells the Observer. “The name comes from the Catalan word ‘espardenya’, derived from espart, a Mediterranean grass traditionally used to make ropes and woven goods. The modern espadrille can be traced back to the medieval period and is now widely associated with Catalonia, the Basque Country and southern France.”
Espadrilles have also long been associated with other Spanish regions, such as Aragon, Valencia, the Balearic Islands and even farther north, including Andorra, where there is evidence that shepherds wore them in the 20th century as part of their uniform.
In the 14th century, espadrilles were the shoes of choice for farmers and peasants because they were inexpensive and versatile. Before the 16th century, the Spanish Royal Academy (RAE) had already recorded references to “Barga“and”Bargets“In the public records. In the 19th century, paintings by the likes of Francesc Galofre i Oller and Eduardo Zamaques Zabala depicted a more widespread use of espadrilles, with both children And adults wear shoes. By the next century, Spanish soldiers had done just that adopted Sneakers as today’s shoes during the Civil War.
“Before lavish millionaires started cruising around on their private yachts wearing these boots, they were practical work boots worn by farmers, fishermen and laborers,” says Osant. “Their simple construction, consisting of a braided rope sole and canvas upper, made them inexpensive, light and well-suited for hot weather.”
So, how did this humble shoe become a trendy summer staple? The answers to this can be found in the late twentieth century. Castaner— the shoemaking workshop founded by Luis Castaner and his cousin Tomás Serra in 1927 in Bañolas, Girona — is widely credited with putting espadrilles on the high fashion map. For decades, the brand has been making classic espadrilles favored by local personalities, gaining some notable fans along the way — Grace Kelly, for example, wore a pair To catch a thief. Then, in 1970, they collaborated with Yves Saint Laurent to create the first-ever espadrilles, which are now among the most iconic styles of the shoe.
“It was a turning point,” Rafael Castaner, head of design at Castaner and grandson of Louis Castaner, one of the brand’s original founders, tells Observer. “Yves Saint Laurent suggested taking the espadrille to the runway, and we designed the jute wedge. He really turned the espadrille into a fashion icon and became Castaner’s international push.”
This began “the transition from workwear to a staple piece of modern fashion,” Osant says. He adds: “The high-heeled espadrille design was a success and introduced the style to the luxury fashion market. We can thank Yves Saint Laurent for establishing a modern connection between the luxury lifestyle of the Riviera Collection and Dolce Vita with the humble, handcrafted espadrille. The cultural connection to the Mediterranean was already established, but it took a designer known for jet-set fashion to take it to the cutting edge of fashion.”
With the revival of international trade and travel after the end of Franco’s dictatorship in 1975, this bohemian lifestyle, which associated wearers with the allure of Spanish intellectuals such as Salvador Dali and seaside vacationers, became more attractive, but the seeds of the expansion of espadrilles had been planted years earlier. Decades ago, the likes of JFK and Hollywood actors like Debbie Reynolds and Grace Kelly wore the shoe to embody that “casual, simple and organic” spirit, as Osant put it, during trips across the pond.
The YSL espadrille broadened the shoe’s appeal in the 1970s, but other brands have since also jumped on the bandwagon. In the 2000s, Anya Hindmarsh released her own pair. Chanel’s two-tone espadrilles from 2011 are one of the most famous models of high fashion. For Ossant, the shoe “reflected the house’s famous two-tone shoe introduced in 1957. It was a fresh update and elevated the humble shoe to the top of the fashion runways.” Since then, we’ve seen espadrilles from Celine, Valentino, Oscar de la Renta, Altuzarra, Delpozo, Loewe, Loro Piana, Ferragamo, Chloe, Etro, Zimmermann, and Ralph Lauren.
However, to this day, there is something very traditional about espadrilles, and more and more people are flocking to their home country for their pairs. In Spain, local brands aim to keep the espadrille tradition alive while reaching a global audience.
“Espadrilles are a reflection of the Mediterranean lifestyle,” said Claudia Bermejo, communications officer at Tony Pons“, says the observer. Like Castaner, Toni Pons has also been making espadrilles in the Girona region since 1946. “They are made from natural materials such as jute and cotton, which convey a more relaxed, fresh and timeless style in fashion. “They are comfortable shoes, inspired by our land and our lifestyles.” Castaner agrees that they embody “a light, fresh and natural elegance that has its origins in the Mediterranean.”
“The key to the popularity lies in the fact that espadrilles are a shoe that combines comfort and style really well,” continues Bermejo. “They are versatile, easy to style and work just as well for everyday use as they do for more special occasions; there are even brides who get married wearing espadrilles. Plus, they have a truly authentic and artisanal character that people these days are beginning to appreciate more and more, both inside and outside of Spain.”
In recent history, espadrilles have become a summer staple for the royal family. Everyone from Princess Diana to Pippa Middleton, Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle have been seen wearing this style. The Spanish royal family, including Queen Letizia and her daughters, Princesses Leonor and Sofía, are fans of espadrilles, often wearing sporty styles from brands like Castaner, Toni Pons, Espadrille Bacon, Macarena, and others. Espadrilles have also made their way onto the global screen, with Margot Robbie donning a pair in 2023. Barbie And Lola Tung’s Belly Conklin wears nothing but two pairs of Castañer’s signature sneakers in Season 3 of the hit Prime Video show. The summer she turned beautiful. (He was an actor too visual Wearing it again while shooting for the next movie The summer she turned beautiful movie this summer.)
But with widespread global interest also comes large-scale manufacturing. “Today, espadrilles are produced by brands ranging from traditional family-run companies to major fashion houses,” says Osant. “For savvy shoppers, one of the easiest ways to differentiate a quality espadrille from a cheaper alternative is to look at the materials and construction. Traditional styles use natural fibers and stitched construction, while less expensive versions often rely on synthetic materials and glue.”
If you want the real deal, sticking with the Spanish product is usually a safe bet. “The way we make espadrilles is still a very artisanal process,” Bermejo says of Tony Ponce. Although some elements have evolved, such as shoe stays and some materials, the brand still tries to preserve as much of the traditional process as possible, enlisting skilled craftsmen to finish each shoe by hand. The jute braid is hand-molded, and parts are cut from the shoe. Then, the final step requires the person to sew them together by hand, which Bermejo says “requires experience, precision and a lot of time.”
Castaner also points out that “manufacturing has clearly evolved” for the pioneering brand, but entirely hand-stitched models are still available to the public using the same techniques that the atelier applied when it was first founded. The brand uses the same manufacturing method for its soles as it did in the early 1900s, which was invented by Thomas Serra, Louis Castaner’s cousin and co-founder of the brand. “Depending on the model, a pair of Castañer shoes can take several hours to make,” adds Castañer. “We make the jute sole first, then the cut, which in some models is hand-stitched in the traditional way and in others it is more industrial.”
Regardless of the process, craftsmanship still permeates all models. The handcrafted seal “guarantees authenticity and quality and preserves the craft,” says Castaner. “Each pair has a unique personality and keeps the tradition alive.”
Bermejo agrees. “Espadrilles are part of our history and culture,” she says. “Keeping their craftsmanship alive is a way to preserve this legacy and protect a profession that is part of our heritage.” “Craftsmanship provides irreplaceable value: behind every shoe, there is knowledge, experience and work from people who have spent decades perfecting the technology. We believe in the importance of progress and innovation, but we always keep our essence alive.”
It’s precisely because espadrilles are rooted in simplicity, they have stood the test of time, and will likely never go out of style. “The processes involved in making leather shoes are chemical and labor intensive,” says Osant, “but with an espadrille shoe, the wearer can see the hand-braided jute, the blanket stitching and understand the craftsmanship and simple steps taken to make the shoe. It is more organic, craft-oriented and accessible for people who want to design their own clothes. Being able to see and understand the craft is essential for an effortless look.” As shoppers become more aware of where their products come from, one simple look at an espadrille sums up its history perfectly.
