In Positano, there’s no escaping the crowds, which gather in hordes in the picturesque Amalfi Coast town between March and October. While Positano has become famous for its colorful cliffside buildings and umbrella-covered beaches, Praiano, its neighbor down the road, is less well-known. Perched on the edge of a cliff with endless views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Praiano has the same stunning scenery as its bustling neighbor to the west, but is much quieter and, some say, more authentic to the Italian way of life.
The difference between Positano and Praiano, even during the quieter season, could not be more stark. When I visited the area in late October, as many hotels were preparing to close for the winter, Positano was still bustling with people. The town looked like a tourist trap or a Disneyland attraction, created to evoke the feeling of the Amalfi Coast in the most clichéd way. I left after just a few hours, eager to return to the charming streets of Praiano, which looked less like a movie set and more like where you might live.
Home to about 2,100 people, Praiano is particularly attractive, thanks in part to its small size, as it straddles the Italian coast between Positano and Amalfi. Perhaps it would go unnoticed by tourists if it were not home to them Casa Angelinaa luxury hotel opened in 2005 by Antonino Capello, who transformed an existing 1970s property into something much grander.
The hotel’s location offers the best view of the Amalfi Coast, at least according to Domenico De Simone, Casa Angelina’s managing director. From the city and from Casa Angelina, you can see Capri, Li Galli and Positano, providing a sense of the true scale of the area. “Prayano is the last village here that is very authentic, down-to-earth and very quiet,” De Simone tells the Observer.
Casa Angelina is located on top of rocky cliffs on the western side of Praiano. Guests have access to La Javitilla Beach Cluba private club located down dozens of stairs, but the best way to access the city is through a hidden side door from the pool deck. It opens onto the maze of narrow streets surrounding the hotel, where cats sun themselves and teenagers wander around playing music on weekend afternoons. The streets eventually lead to Paroccia di San Gennarothe parish church, which first opened its doors in 1589. There are a few other hotels and rental apartments, including contemporary and intimate hotels Onda Verde Hotel And more budget friendly La Divina Amalfi CoastPlus some local shops and restaurants along the main road. To the east, lies the small, hidden bay of Marina de Praia, home to fishermen, cafes and an intimate beach.
Travelers can easily reach Positano, Amalfi and Ravello by car or bus. Casa Angelina offers an hourly shuttle between the hotel and Positano (it takes less than 10 minutes), though De Simone points out that many guests don’t stay long, especially during the busy summer months, which is exactly what she experienced. “In the last two years, the real situation has been that people go to Positano, spend a maximum of two hours there, and have a very bad experience,” he says.
Praiano has an exceptionally good location. “It is very easy for all our guests to access all the surrounding areas” antonia Gambardella, says one of the concierge specialists at Casa Angelina. “Positano is a special destination, but it’s really crowded. Praiano brings an authenticity that the rest of the Amalfi Coast towns lose a bit.”
This idea of authenticity comes up often. It’s something that’s hard to definitively explain, but you can definitely feel it. Praiano is smaller than the surrounding towns. It’s less than a square mile. Children play soccer in front of the church, and families go for weekend walks along the coast. The cafes are frequented by locals, who seem unfazed by visitors. Despite its size, there is a lot to do. Praiano is located in a prime location along the Way of the Gods, a hiking trail that runs from Pomerano to Noselle. The entire route, which is best traversed in spring or autumn when the weather is less intense, is about six kilometers long and takes the better part of a day due to the slopes. The catch is that to get to the path from Praiano, you have to climb almost 1000 steps. It’s an intense climb, but worth it for the views.
You can easily walk into the city, where visitors can stroll to Torre a Mare, a medieval tower, or follow the coastal path to Marina di Praia, which can be reached on foot via a winding path. Unlike the crowded beach clubs in Positano, the small beach at Marina di Praia is secluded and often full of locals. There De Martino recommends Trattoria da Armandinoa family-owned waterside restaurant that has been around for over 100 years. “The seafood is very fresh because the fishermen catch it in the morning and then serve it at night,” she says.
“This restaurant in particular is special throughout the Amalfi Coast because it is one of the few restaurants that still has its own fishermen,” Gambardella adds. “The older fishermen usually get into their boats at two in the morning, and in the morning they bring back everything they catch during the night. Praiano is famous for its tutani, a type of squid that must be caught at night.”
Toutani, a variety of European squid, are found in the waters along the Amalfi Coast. They are so plentiful that Praiano has a signature dish made with them known as totani e patate, a mixture of squid and potatoes fried in olive oil, tomatoes and garlic. It’s a rustic dish, but surprisingly delicious and light. It is available in many restaurants, but those who want to better understand the relationship between sea and dish can join Casa Angelina on a nighttime squid fishing excursion. This experience is available between May and September, depending on sea and weather conditions, and is a great way to be part of a local tradition.
Enjoying seafood is a big deal in Praiano. Although travelers can find the expected Italian cuisine, such as pasta and pizza, around the Amalfi Coast, simple dishes of fresh fish, especially totani and pizzogna, reflect what the residents eat, again offering an authentic experience of the region. Other noteworthy dining options include La Taverna del Leona family-owned place dating back to 1965, and Restaurant Km0a newer restaurant that focuses on very local ingredients and also offers cooking classes. To enjoy the stunning views, book a terrace table at El Pirata Ristorante.
There is less shopping in Praiano than in Positano, but what you find is often more interesting. View La pachica For homemade ceramics that are worthy of gifts. in Rosalinda flower factorywhich provides floral arrangements for upscale weddings, passersby often encounter an older man weaving flower baskets outside.
“Priano almost takes us back to ancient times, where there were more emotional and familial connections,” says Gambardella. “We have some guests who leave our shortcut and say, ‘I found your neighbor, and he asked me to come in and have some coffee.’ This is very simple, but at the same time it is so authentic and emotional that you cannot find it in the more famous parts. Here, there is a quiet part of life. You feel the rhythm of local life, which is very nice.
In October, Praiano was so quiet he almost felt abandoned, except for the cats, of course. Positano, on the other hand, was chaotic and noisy. Not surprising. Positano attracts more than 12,000 visitors a day between Easter and October and approximately 5 Million visitors annually. There are no widely available numbers for Praiano, but they are likely much lower. It gets busier in July and August, like the rest of the coast, although it doesn’t feel the same way as it does in Positano. Traveling during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall can help ensure complete calm.
This peaceful feeling is enhanced by the water views and intense sunsets that appear every evening. They were particularly concentrated in October, which several Casa Angelina employees said was a feature of this time of year. Some locals even refer to Praiano as the “Sunset City.”
“Every sunset, every month, every year is different,” De Simone asserts. “You come to the Amalfi Coast, to Praiano and to Casa Angelina for the sunsets and the panoramic views.”
The appeal of the Amalfi Coast is certainly undeniable, especially the way it’s showcased on Instagram, where crowds are often cropped out. Overtourism in Positano can be overwhelming and detract from what a trip to the area should be like. Although there are several attractive destinations nearby, including Ravello and Atrani, for a certain type of traveler, it’s best to stay off-touristy. Praiano may not be as dramatic as Positano, but it has something more important: the feeling of home.
