Winter is finally beginning to fade across much of the United States, and as temperatures rise into the low 50s, prairies that were previously choked by heavy piles of snow are now exuding the distinct fragrance that heralds spring. However, as welcome as the warmer weather is, there’s something about the special magic of winter that makes it hard to give up. In the world of watchmaking, independent luxury watchmaker GoS (formerly Gustafsson & Sjogren) has managed to capture more than a little of that magic. Named after its founders, bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrick Sjögren, it has built its reputation for excellence on designs that reference Norse and Viking mythology as an ode to cold winters and dark nights – and on its distinctive use of hand-forged Damascus steel. In fact, it has succeeded in creating one of the most unique brand identities on the market today, and discerning watch collectors find the GoS catalog uniquely irresistible.
One of the finest watches in its collection is the exquisite GoS Skadi, named after the Norse goddess of winter. Made in a very limited run of just five, the Skadi dial is a rare landscape of rich white and icy blue – an effect achieved through luminous mother-of-pearl designed to represent the banks of snow that cover every surface throughout the Scandinavian winter. But there’s another layer at play beneath the surface: a layer of Swiss SuperLumiNova that captures light during the day and radiates in the dark, with a sheen similar to the shine of moonlight on snow. A pair of GoS-branded Viking-spear hands float above; Below it is a triple seconds indicator that enhances the sophisticated Scandinavian look of this watch. It’s all framed by recast 18k gold created by gold expert Peter DeWitt and set with sapphires to mark the indices.
A dial of this quality requires a premium case, and here GoS returns to its roots by reintroducing dark Gustafsson Damascus steel, which is paired with brilliant red gold. The brand pioneered black Damascus steel manufacturing technology in 2018, creating a PVD finish that enhanced the natural contrast patterns in the steel while darkening the metal. The natural patterning of the steel layers (also present here on the hands, bezel and hand-carved crown) evokes wood, which, when combined with delicate engravings by award-winning knife maker Anders Hedlund, conjures images of Viking armor.
The quality of a watch is determined above all by its movement, and as expected, Sjögren has done a fantastic job with the Skadi. Reworked from the Soprod Chronomètre Grade 6498, it represents perhaps Skadi’s only link to Switzerland – albeit certainly a respectable one. Subrud is one of the youngest Swiss movement makers, and Sjögren’s choice of this movement over a more common collection, such as the ETA or Sellita, represents a deliberate decision to break with mainstream Swiss tradition. But he didn’t stop there. The movement’s bridges were completely re-machined using a single piece of Damascus steel made by Gustafsson, which was then engraved and set with further gold inlay by Hedlund, all surrounded by Sjogren and Perlage – another hallmark of true high-art watchmaking.
There are very few traditional schools in the world of watchmaking. The primary school is of course the Swiss School which introduced the techniques and finishes most common in modern luxury watches. Then there is the British School, which has historically focused on various movement finishes, such as hand-engraving; The French school, which appears best in Leroy’s historical work; And the German school with its endless seas of German silver; And now we are here. The argument that the Government of Sudan is developing an entirely new school of watchmaking unique to Scandinavia is, frankly, astonishing. Other products are time-honored and rely on centuries of mechanical and aesthetic innovation. In that light, Skadi is an exceptionally young buck.
But GoS’s connection to a broader historical past – to Norse myth and legend – makes this watch more than just a cool-looking watch. In this sense, it becomes a true cultural beacon of Nordic identity and a celebration of heritage in the form of watches.
The GoS Skadi, which retailed for $42,000, has since been sold. Skadi No.1 was delivered in early March 2020 to a US collector; No. 3 will be delivered later this year. According to the Government of Sudan, collectors who missed out on the extremely limited offer can pre-order a similar watch here.
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